ree UMD
Last year saw the adoption by the University of Maryland of the goals set forth by the Worker Rights Consortium. The university’s affiliation with the WRC is one step toward guaranteeing that apparel baring the school’s name is not made in sweat shops and that the workers who make the clothing are afforded a living wage, the right to organize, and safe working conditions. Participation in the WRC, however, is nothing more than an empty gesture unless students and administrations push for enforcement of the Code of Conduct that governs the treatment of workers in the factories that produce university apparel and take action when violations of worker rights are uncovered.
The WRC acts as a monitoring agency of the factories that produce university clothing, generating reports on factory conditions and revealing violations of the Code of Conduct. Investigations are launched in response to complaints from workers and are carried out by WRC labor specialists and members of the local community, including workers and worker advocates. However, the violations that these investigations uncover only have the potential to spark improvement in factory working conditions if the university acknowledges the worker abuses and presses the licensed brand responsible for contracting with the factory (e.g. Nike and Champion) to enforce fair wages, healthy working conditions, and the right of workers to be represented by a union. WRC affiliation does not require that the university do anything to correct worker rights violations; the responsibility of improving working conditions rests with university students and administrators. WRC reports of factory conditions are made public, available to students as well university licensing administrators. Student outrage at revealed worker rights abuses and actions calling for university decision-makers to actively support factory improvements are the tools that can make a positive impact on worker rights.
The next step toward achieving truly sweat-free apparel is the university’s endorsement of the Designated Suppliers Program, a model developed by United Students Against Sweatshops that builds on the foundation laid by the university’s participation in the WRC. Under DSP the university must source a percentage of its apparel from factories where workers are represented by a union and paid a living wage. Over time the university must require its licensed brands to buy more and more clothing from factories that respect worker rights, eventually sourcing all of its apparel from factories where workers are unionized and are paid a living wage. The Designated Suppliers Program uses the WRC to monitor factory compliance with Codes of Conduct and requires that licensed brands pay fair prices for the goods produced in the factory.
Student support of the university’s participation in the WRC was strong last year, with endorsement by numerous student groups and the Student Government Association (the full list of student groups supporting the WRC affiliation can be found at www.umcp.org). Such enthusiasm is essential to the success of a new campaign to achieve sweat-free university apparel. Without an energetic campaign waged by concerned students, the university licensing department will not be compelled to take action. A unified student voice is the one of the most effective tools in a campaign for worker rights and it is what this campus needs now more than ever.
If the University of Maryland commits to Designated Suppliers Program campaign, it will join forty other campuses across the country that are calling for an end to university acceptance of sweat-shop labor, including UNC Chapel Hill, Duke, University of Wisconsin Madison, Purdue, and UC Santa Cruz. Inter-university unity in the sweat-shop free campaign is essential to success. When many schools around the country unite and all call on their licensed brands to buy products from factories where worker rights are respected, the brands will be more likely to retain the business that our schools supply than cut our contracts and find cheaper business elsewhere. The cornerstone of this push to protect the rights of the workers who make our clothing is student and administration concern and their willingness to commit time and money to the advancement of labor justice.
Sarah Grabenstein Senior Environmental Science and Policy major member, Students and Workers Unite!
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